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Road Trip Pacific Rim Highway 4: Nanaimo to Tofino
y Indigenous Tourism British Columbia April 23, 2024
WINDING AND UNWINDING
Unwind as you wind from Nanaimo in the Traditional Territory of the Snuneymuxw (pronounced “snue-ney-mowck”) First Nation through mossy forests and over misty mountains. Travel along Pacific Rim Highway 4 toward Tofino — a legendary surf, storm, and sunset locale situated within the ḥahuułi (pronounced “ha-houlthee”) Traditional Territory of the Tla-o-qui-aht (pronounced “klay-o-kwee-at”) First Nation of the nuučaanułatḥ (pronounced “new-chaw-nulth”) Peoples.
BEFORE YOU PLAN YOUR VISIT, NOT ALL BUSINESS AND EXPERIENCES ARE OPEN YEAR-ROUND.
CHECK IN FOR OPEN DATES AND CURRENT HOURS.
Leave the mainland behind and drop into Island time. This trip begins in Nanaimo, a mid-island gateway town on Vancouver Island’s central east coast.
Daily flights are available from Vancouver or you can travel by ferry across the Georgia Strait, an arm of the Salish Sea. This ride often delights visitors with chance encounters with orcas and other marine wildlife.
Travel north on Highway 19 from Nanaimo toward Parksville and Qualicum Beach. The Pacific Rim Highway winds through the Vancouver Island Mountains just west of here. Begin your pursuit of the setting sun as you venture from Nanaimo and traditional Coast Salish lands to Tofino in the Nuu-chah-nulth Territory.
Before you go...
Remember to review road conditions on this legendary highway. Here is a selection of some of our favourite stops and Indigenous experiences along this route:
Aerial view along the coastline at the Nanaimo River Estuary on Vancouver Island. Nanaimo
Start your drive to the west coast of Vancouver Island in the traditional territory of the Snuneymuxw First Nation, who have inhabited present-day Nanaimo since time immemorial. Surrounded by water on three sides, it is a place where the direct connection between daily life and the surrounding waters prevails.
What to Explore in Nanaimo
Visit Petroglyph Provincial Park, located near the Nanaimo River Estuary at the south end of town. Easily accessible from the Trans-Canada Highway, this collection of carvings etched into stone by stone depicts Coast Salish people, animals, and mythological sea creatures and dates back to at least the 10th century.
Experience Saysutshun (pronounced “SAY-sut-shun”; formerly Newcastle Island) off the coast of downtown Nanaimo, and the traditional territory of the Snuneymuxw First Nation. Hear sacred stories directly from Knowledge Keepers. Saysutshun is a spiritual place for the Snuneymuxw People that held village sites(?) and provided rich natural resources for countless generations. Managed by Snuneymuxw First Nation in partnership with BC Parks and the City of Nanaimo, Saysutshun is only accessible via passenger ferry or boat and has an 18 walk-in sites and five group sites that can accommodate up to 50 people
Ay Lelum, (pronounced similar to “aigh(t) lay-lum”) translates to “Good House” in Hul’qumi’num (pronounced “hull-kuh-mee-num”), is the studio of a multi-generational family of collaborative Coast Salish artists. Located in Snuneymuxw Territory, this Indigenous family arts collective also makes music and hosts workshops and fashion shows. Shop for ready-to-wear pieces and other artwork by the family at their new facility in Nanaimo.
Where to Eat in Nanaimo
Off the Hook specialises in contemporary seafood and offers an all gluten-free menu with smokery food and family-friendly options. Dine in and enjoy their chef-curated fully prepared meals in outdoor seating or takeaways. Large groups are welcome; digital and in-restaurant gift cards are available.
Enjoy harbour views at Trollers Fish and Chips, a floating restaurant located in the heart of Nanaimo. Committed to sustainability and environmental consciousness, Trollers serves halibut, cod, and salmon from the surrounding waters. Part of the Off the Hook Surf Turf and Smokery Family, the seaside restaurant offers a carefully curated selection of fish dishes, premium house-smoked meats, salads, and hamburgers.
Where to Stay in Nanaimo
Stay at the new Courtyard Nanaimo, an environmentally sustainable Marriott hotel, where Snuneymuxw culture is celebrated by visitors worldwide. Your stay supports the economic growth of the majority owners Snuneymuxw First Nation and the local community.
Snaw-naw-as Campground is a popular destination for long-term stays, and travellers looking for a central home base from which to explore other Vancouver Island destinations, including Tofino, Courtenay, and the West Coast Trail. Located in Lantzville, just north of Nanaimo, the dog-friendly campground, owned by Snaw-naw-as (Nanoose) First Nation, offers wi-fi, hot showers, and unmatched views of the rugged Winchelsea island chains.
A family is exploring the Brant Viewing Area at Qualicum Beach on Vancouver Island. They are Bird Watching. Where to Stay
Qualicum First Nation Campground, RV & Cabins is centrally located with a short drive from Qualicum Beach on Vancouver Island. Bordered by the temperate waters of the Strait of Georgia, the campground is divided by the Big Qualicum River and provides beach access to all guests. Seasonal campsites, basic camping, serviced and non-serviced waterfront and off-water recreational vehicle sites, and full RV hook-up sites are available.
What to Explore Around Port Alberni
Before you reach Port Alberni, situated within the traditional territory of the Tseshaht (pronounced “say-shot“) and Hupacasath (pronounced “ho-putch-eh-set”) First Nations, visit Cathedral Grove. Look for culturally modified trees among this stand of red cedar and Douglas fir trees, the largest of which is estimated to be over 800 years old. The area’s watershed is a significant wildlife corridor and links Clayoquot Sound (originally “tla-o-qui-aht”; pronounced “klaw-oh-kwee-awt”) and Mount Arrowsmith, both designated UNESCO biosphere reserves.
Ahtsik Gallery & Gordon Dick Studio, open by appointment or chance, represents Indigenous artists who work in the traditional styles of their cultures. Located on the Tseshaht First Nation lands in the temperate coastal rainforest of west coast Vancouver Island, right next to the city of Port Alberni, the gallery and studio is owned by Tseshaht/Nuu-chah-nulth artist and Master Carver Gordon Dick, who works from his on-site carving shed. Purchase an existing piece or commission a custom piece.
Located in Port Alberni, Slivers Charters Salmon Sport Fishing offers safely-guided salmon and halibut saltwater fishing charters in several areas around Vancouver Island, including Port Alberni, Barkley Sound and Bamfield, and Ucluelet (pronounced “you-clue-let”). Families, corporate groups, and groups of up to 30 and more are welcome. Accommodations are available.
Where to Eat
Stop at Bare Bones Fishhouse and Smokery, a contemporary restaurant offering a gluten-free, innovative, and globally-inspired menu. With Ocean Wise seafood and in-house smoked meat, this Port Alberni restaurant showcases a diverse range of fish, quality meats, tacos, burgers, and bowls.
Totem poles at the Tsehaht Market in Alberni Valley Where to Stay
Chim’s Guest House is located on the Pacific Rim Highway in Port Alberni and offers a selection of mobility-friendly guest houses for your accommodation. Online booking and corporate travel bookings are available at these mountain-view guest houses, all with full kitchens and wi-fi.
Nitinaht Comfort Camping is located next to famous walking trails and provides access to both Nitinaht Lake and the Caycuse River — a place renowned for its untouched beauty and thermal winds that draw kite surfers and windsurfers from all over the world. Nitinaht Campground’s new cozy 1-bedroom cabins each include a kitchenette, pull out couch, bathroom with shower, and wrap-around decks with BBQ, and propane fire ring. Sites fill up fast annually with nature lovers and hikers looking to complete a shorter trek by accessing the new third entrance to the West Coast Trail.
Nitinat Wilderness Charters on Nitinaht Lake on the West Coast of Vancouver Island offers accommodations, sightseeing tours, and seasonal daily water taxi services to and from the West Coast Trail. Located in the middle of the trail, the longstanding business welcomes walkers and visitors from around the world to take rest in their cozy rooms and cabins. Talk to staff to arrange a custom bird watching, whale watching, or oral history tour on the waters.
Raven’s River Rest, located on the banks of the Somass River, is ideal for families and small groups. The pet-friendly property–a self-contained house–is exceptionally affordable ($225/night) and can easily accommodate five guests. The beautiful grounds include a koi pond, gardens with Indigenous medicinal plants, and a private boat dock, beach, and river access for on-site swimming and fishing.
Drone footage of Ucluelet Lighthouse What to Explore in Ucluelet
Cedar House Gallery is an Indigenous-owned and -operated business located in Ucluelet that specializes in Nuu-chah-nulth art and hosts a wide array of jewellery, prints and paintings, carvings, drums, and giftware. The Gallery is owned and operated by artist Tlehpika Hjalmer Wenstob and his family. Hjalmer is a Nuu-chah-nulth from Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation and also carries Norwegian and English ancestry. The family invites you to stop by for stories, art, and conversation.
Tiikin eBike Rentals, located at the Ucluelet/Tofino Junction, welcomes you to their traditional Yuułuʔiłʔatḥ First Nation land. Owned and operated by a Ucluelet First Nation family, Tiikin offers easy booking for their award-winning e-bikes, with two-hour, half-day, and full-day rentals available. Discover traditional Yuułuʔiłʔatḥ First Nation lands and hit up areas from the Amphitrite Point Lighthouse to Long Beach.
Where to Stay
Wya Point Resort, which rests on pristine, private beaches surrounded by 600 acres of old-growth forest on Ucluelet First Nation’s traditional territory, welcomes visitors with luxurious lodge accommodations. This natural, west coast adventure lodging is located only a few kilometres outside Ucluelet and minutes from the world-famous Pacific Rim National Park.
What to Explore in Tofino
Ahous Adventures offers eco-cultural adventure tours from Tofino and is owned and operated by the Ahousaht Nation. Book a hot springs tour year-round or a whale or bear viewing tour until late September. Explore Ahousaht territories through the lens of the people who have lived on and stewarded these lands and waters since time immemorial.
Discover Clayoquot Sound with local Indigenous guides at Clayoquot Wild, offering wildlife, custom, and hot spring tours. With smaller groups and responsive hosts, every trip onto these Nuu-chah-nulth waters is unique and shaped by the animals you see, including gray(?), humpback, and orca whales; eagles, puffins, and other marine birds; sea lions, sea otters, and
Roy Henry Vickers Gallery is Roy Henry Vickers’ artist-owned gallery located in Tofino, British Columbia. This stunning traditional Northwest Coast longhouse has a carved and painted cedar plank exterior and is a recognizable Tofino landmark. Inside, discover Roy’s artwork of paintings, original prints, calendars, art cards, and reproductions.
House of Himwitsa Native Art Gallery showcases Indigenous-designed clothing, local hand-carved masks, sculptures, bentwood boxes, hand-engraved silver & gold jewellery, and gifts in the heart of downtown Tofino.
Sir Landon James Charters, operated by Captain Bert Tom, a proud member of the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation, steers you through the stunning landscapes of Tofino, British Columbia.
Specializing in small group charters, this charter service offers an intimate journey enriched with the profound heritage and warm hospitality of the Nuu-chah-nulth People. Discover the serene beauty of Meares “Big Tree” Island on affordable daily excursions, or craft a private charter itinerary that immerses you in the ancestral spirit of these waters.
Where to Stay
Indigenous-owned Tin Wis Resort, on the ancestral home of the Tla-o-qui-aht People, welcomes travellers seeking a tranquil oceanfront retreat. The hotel is situated by the serene waters of Tin Wis Beach and offers cultural connection, the Pacific Rim’s largest island events centre, and the exceptional comfort, quality, and care of renowned hospitality leader Best Western.
Owned by members of Nu-Chah-Nulth Nation, Himwitsa Lodge offers oceanview lodge accommodations in the heart of downtown Tofino. Hosted at the same location as the House of Himwitsa Native Art Gallery, the lodge is located minutes away from the water’s edge & all amenities and a short distance from Pacific Rim National Park Reserve and Meares Island.
Book one of 34 designated RV sites and 13 mini-longhouse cabins for your coastal camping experience. Belonging to a community of businesses committed to supporting the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation’s vision for a socially and ecologically just conservation economy, Tsawaak RV Resort and Campground provides private access to Tinwis, formerly Mackenzie Beach, and is close to popular hikes and attractions. Tsawaak is derived from His-shuk-nish-tsa-waak, meaning “we are all one,” honouring a deep connection to nature and the land.
BEFORE YOU PLAN YOUR VISIT, NOT ALL BUSINESS AND EXPERIENCES ARE OPEN YEAR-ROUND.
CHECK IN FOR OPEN DATES AND CURRENT HOURS.
THE CHOICE IS YOURS
Travel to mid-Vancouver Island on BC Ferries from Horseshoe Bay in West Vancouver or Powell River on the Sunshine Coast. From here, you can explore the forested and laid-back Gulf Islands or Discovery Islands, make your way north to Haida Gwaii, or head to the Alaska Marine Highway System to explore Alaska’s Inside Passage.
SLOW PACE, SMALL THINGS
Travel from Nanaimo to Tofino, as the slower pace of island life gifts you a larger window through which you can see and soak in all the small, beautiful things.